Some
of my favorites:
#1 Café du Marché, has the best seats, coffee, and prices
on rue Cler,. They serve hearty E10 salads and good E11 plats du jour
for lunch or dinner to a trendy, smoky, mainly French crowd. This easygoing
café is ideal if you want a light dinner (good dinner salads) or a
more substantial but simple meal. Arrive before 19:30; it's packed at 21:00.
A chalkboard lists the plates of the day each a meal (MonSat
11:0023:00, closes at 17:00 on Sun, at the corner of rue Cler and rue
du Champ de Mars, at 38 rue Cler, tel. 01 47 05 51 27). In 2005, they plan
to open a pasta restaurant next door.
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#3 Cafe La Bosquet: This is a Parsian brasserie
with dressy waiters and classic indor or sidewalk tables on Avenue Bosquet.
Has great french onion soup, salades and 3 course set menues
(E18). Closed Sundays. The house red wine is good, Located
corner of rue du Champs de Mars and avenue Bosquet, at 46 avenue Bosquet,
tel. 01 45 51 38 13).
# 6 Au Petit Tonneau has Fun-loving owner-chef Madame Boyer
who prepares everything herself, wearing her tall chef's hat like a crown
as she rules from her family-style kitchen. The small dining room is plain
and doesn't look like it's changed in the 25 years she's been running the
place. Her steaks and lamb are excellent (allow E28 for 2 courses, E35 4-course
menu, open daily, can get smoky come early, 20 rue Surcouf, tel. 01
47 05 09 01).
#9 Restaurant la Serre is reasonably priced and worth considering
(plats du jour E1115, closed Sun-Mon, good onion soup and duck specialties,
29 rue de l'Exposition, tel. 01 45 55 20 96, Margot).
#11 La Varangue is an entertaining one-man show featuring English-speaking
Phillipe, who ran a French catering shop in Pennsylvania for three years,
then returned to Paris to open his own place. He lives upstairs, and clearly
has found his niche serving a Franco-American clientele who are all on a
first-name basis. The food is cheap and basic (don't come here for a special
dinner), the tables are few, and he opens early (at 17:30). Norman Rockwell
would dig his tiny dining room (E10 plats du jour and a E14.50 menu, closed
Sun, always a veggie option, 27 rue Augereau, tel. 01 47 05 51 22).
#20 Café Constant is a tiny, two-level place that
feels more like a small bistro, serving reasonably priced dishes in a lively
setting. Though new, it has already established a loyal clientele (closed
Sun, corner of rue Augereau and rue St. Dominique, next to Hotel Londres
Eiffel).
#21 Le Toulouse is a cheap and easygoing food store-restaurant
serving southwest French cuisine (featuring duck, cassoulet, and hearty salads)
in a modern setting (closed Sun, 86 rue St Dominique, tel. 01 45 56 04 31).
# 24 Thoumieux, This is rue Cler's classy, traditional
Parisian brasserie which is a local institution and deservedly popular. It's
big and dressy, with formal but good-natured waiters. They serve a E14 lunch
menu, a E31-33 dinner menu (3 courses with wine), and really good crème
brulée (daily, 79 rue St. Dominique, tel. 01 47 05 49 75).
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Picnicking
The rue Cler is a moveable feast that gives "fast food" a good name. The
entire street is clogged with connoisseurs of good eating. Only the health-food
store goes unnoticed. A festival of food, the street is lined with people
whose lives seem to be devoted to their specialty: polished produce, rotisserie
chicken, crêpes, or cheese.
For a magical picnic dinner at the Eiffel Tower, assemble it in no fewer
than five shops on rue Cler. Then lounge on the best grass in Paris (the
police don't mind after dusk), with the dogs, Frisbees, a floodlit tower,
and a cool breeze in the parc du Champ de Mars.
Asian delis (generically called Traiteur Asie) provide tasty, low-stress,
low-price take-out treats (E6 dinner plates, the one on rue Cler near rue
du Champ de Mars has tables). There's a Greek deli with outdoor seats on
rue Cler across from Grand Hôtel Lévêque. The elegant
Fauchon charcuterie offers mouthwatering meals to go (open daily until 23:00,
at Ecole Militaire Métro stop). Real McCoy is a little shop selling
American food and sandwiches (closed Sun, 194 rue de Grenelle). There are
small late-night groceries at 186 and 197 rue de Grenelle (open nightly until
midnight).
Breakfast
Café la Roussillon serves American breakfasts for E7.50 and a dynamite
Sunday brunch for E15 (daily, at corner of rue de Grenelle and rue Cler,
tel. 01 45 51 47 53). The Pourjauran bakery, offering great baguettes,
hasn't changed in 70 years (20 rue Jean Nicot). The bakery at 112 rue St.
Dominique is worth the detour, with classic decor and tables where you can
enjoy your café au lait and croissant.
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