Mele's Favorite Detours...

.....useful ROMA Links
        
        Map of Rome
         Rome on-line tour
         Monuments of Rome
         Museums of Rome

.......I'm not so sure this photo is worth the time it took to get it with only 3 days in Rome! Yet our 3 days were unique, being escorted by Catarina—my daughter Lisa's Roman friend. With our grocery list of sights in hand, she marched us through 3 days worth of sights in 2! Thank goodness, Hotel Aberdeen had broken toilets and put us up in their brother-in-law's comfy air conditioned Hotel Cortina. I dropped exhausted each evening while my daughter did a quick nap so she could play "night life" with Catarina and her school mates. (Trevi Fountain and a gelate parlor near the Pantheon were the IN PLACES for hanging out for Roman youth—last year.)

Hooking up with anyone you know in Europe is a great way to get an insiders view of a country. (see meeting Europeans).  We have done this in past trips with friends who were American transplants. What a different experience seeing Rome through a natives eyes. It gave us a feel for what is important and interesting (and not) to the locals. I wish we had a tape recorder to get all of Catarina's enlightening stories.

She eagerly toured us around for two days--never coming near my recommended method for "efficient organization of sights". Instead we zigzagged all over Rome, via subway and bus—which I think we may have ridden free a few times. She showed us Mussolini's balcony which we would never have found on our own. She stood us in the middle of St. Peter's Square so we could see all its columns lined up perfectly, taught us how to drink from the fountains—using our hand as a cup, and pointed out which ally her relatives escaped down during W.W.II

As we strolled along the very polluted Tiber River she related a story about her grandfather who traditionally jumped into the River every New Years till he died--a very old man. She complained about what a nuisance all these ancient ruins are to progress--"it took forever to build the subway because they kept running into relics" then proudly pointed out that the flat black paving stones in the streets were the same as used in the days of chariots.

Lisa & Catarina at Colosseum

At the Colosseum she fended off the peddlers and gypsies in appropriate Italian. She quickly got us through Capitol Hill to the Forum's view point, where we drooled at the massive amount of ancient ruins waiting for us to explore. To our surprise she said, "There's nothing important here—just a pile of rubble--not worth seeing", then whisked us off to 5 more churches and a flea market before LUNCH in her home suburb of Balonge--one metro stop from Termini.

"Mouth of Truth"   

Bocca della Virita Location

Putting our disappointment re. the Forum aside and with all our major sights behind us, (whew!)--stuffed from our local lunch and feeling a bit silly from a mite to much grappa, we willingly followed our Roman friend any where she wanted to take us Hawaiians. She started the afternoon with the "Mouth of Truth" (Bocca della Virita')—"of American Movie fame" she told us with enthusiasm. It is located in the Romanesque Santa Maria Cosmedin Church's portico (the Church gift shop has a good post card & book selection,) After walking, riding a bus, then walking some more——we finally stood in line for 20 min. for a 1 min. photo and honesty test. Guess who got her fingers nibbled!?!

Have you noticed that Rick doesn't list this sight in his Best of ITALY book—even in the over rated section? I would definitely put it there! Yet a part of me is OK about having done it. With so many bonus sights under our belts— we were ready to play and giggle. What better place than in a "movie set" and in front of an ancient carved sewer drain cover with a legend.

Is there a lesson to these ramblings? Perhaps. If you have a native show you their home territory—you will have a unique peak into what is important to them—not you. Enjoy this rare and wonderful glimpse into the past in their present. Plan to be open to serendipity. And plan to return —knowing your next visit will be enriched by your memories created by your European friend.           Mele Fujiwara

.....more about Italy

.....more Bacca della Virta Links
         Big colour detail
        Map of Rome
         Rome on-line tour
         Monuments of Rome
         Bocca della Virita Background including links to movies filmed here

  .    .          Want to meet Europeans? See: SERVAS  for "how to" information. 
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